Captación RPM
El Miata tiene una rueda con solo dos piños en cigü (triggers de 180º, PMS y PMI) y un sensor en árbol (trigger de pistón 1 en PMS). Ambos son sensores ópticos, no VR. Así que a la PnP le llegan 2 señales para RPM por 2 pines. En 'Wheel decoder settings' esta activado el '2nd trigger enable', para leer el sensor árbol y conjugar con la señal del sensor cigü. Nada de esto nos sirve para la 60-2 con sensor VR del Misil.
PERO parece que la PnP trae también toda la txixtxirivaina para sensor VR 
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55a - Install and solder R42 and R55 {1.0KEBK-ND, 1K Ohm, brown-black-red}. R42 is located near the DB37 side of the Y1 pad. R55 is beside it, about 1 inch (25mm) above the 'dash' in the copyright notice (the R55 label may be partly obscured by a via).
55b - Install and solder R44, R53, and R54 {10KEBK-ND ,10K Ohm, brown-black-orange}. R44 is between U1 and U7 near the center of the board. R53 is near L1, above ".info" in the copyright notice. R54 is located directly above the dash in the "www.msefi.com/msefi - (C) 2005" notice.
55c - Install and solder R45, R46, and R48 {10KEBK-ND, 10K Ohm, brown, black-orange}. R45 is located beside R12 (the large resistor you spaced off the PCB), closer to the heat sink. R46 is located beside R45, above the "2005" text in the copyright notice. R48 is located very near the center of the PCB.
55d - Install and solder R47 {47KEBK-ND, 47K Ohm, yellow-violet-orange}. R47 is located very near the center of the PCB.
55e - Install and solder R49, and R50 {100KEBK-ND, 100K Ohm, brown-black-yellow}. R50 is beside R47, R49 is to the right (and slight below these - closer to MOV1),
55f - Install and solder R51 {1.0MEBK-ND, 1M Ohm, brown-black-green} near the center of the PCB.
55g - Install and solder R52 {CT94W104-ND} and R56 {CT94W103-ND}. These are the trimmer potentiometers used to 'tune' the VR circuit. The longest lead (and/or the one nearest the "1" imprinted on the case, depending on where you got your components) on each pot should go in the square pad closest to the heat sink. R52 is used to adjust the hysteresis, R56 is used to adjust the zero-crossing point. For VR sensor operation, the pot on the transistor base (R56) needs to be turned to zero volts and the pot on the op-amp feedback (R52) needs to be turned to maximize resistance (i.e. give 100K feedback resistance). This should be with both screws turned fully counter-clockwise. For more on adjusting the VR pots, see this link.
Estos son nuestros dos viejos amigos, pero un poquito diferentes: "(in the 3.57) The two VR input circuit potentiometers (R52 and R56) have been replaced with a 5-turn surface-mount variant."
55h - Install and solder C31 {399-4329-ND, 0.1µF, 104 marking OR 399-2017-ND, 0.001µF}. This is located as the 4th cap in the row of "vertical" capacitors above the text "Bowling" in the copyright notice.
····· Note: A 399-2017-ND 0.001 µF capacitor should be substituted if MegaSquirt will be receiving higher frequency tach inputs. The smaller capacitor helps to mainiain the signal integrity and timing. This 0.001 µF capacitor is especially useful for high tooth count wheels including all crank wheels that have more than one pulse per ignition event such as the popular 36-1 or 60-2 missing tooth crank wheels.
55i - Install and solder C32 {399-2075-ND or 399-4326-ND, 0.01µF, 103 marking}. This is below C31, further from the heat sink. (Note that in some cases, if you experience tach related issues, you can try removing this capacitor.)
55j - Install and solder D24 {1N4001DICT-ND/1N4148DICT-ND}. Note that this items was originally a 1N4001. However, testing showed that the 1N4148 switching diode has a much faster reverse recovery time which can help with high speed, high voltage signals such as you might get with a missing tooth wheel. Be sure to match the band on the diode to the band on the silkscreen. This is located immediately above the "2005" in the copyright notice, beside R56.
55k - Install and solder Q22 and Q23 {ZTX553-ND}. These are located beside D24 (which you just installed), closer to the heat sink. The side of Q22 & Q23 with the rounded edges (i.e., the shorter of the two flat sides) is referred to as the 'rounded side', and it goes away from the CPU for both Q22 and Q23. If you imagined the side that had rounded corners was completely round, then it would match the PCB silkscreen. Be VERY careful when soldering these, the pin spacing is very tight. It is a good idea to clean your solder tip before attempting this. If you do accidentally bridge the leads with solder, you can use a piece of solder wick (which is a fine braided copper ribbon) and a hot soldering iron to remove the excess solder. Note: if you got your kit from a distributor, be sure to follow any instruction they have supplied for these parts!
55l - Install and solder U7 {LM2904NFS-ND}. This is located beside the CPU socket, closer to the DB37 connector. If you have bought a socket for this component (AE7208-ND or AE10011-ND), install and solder it instead, then insert U7 into the socket. The notched end (or the end with a dot in one corner), goes to the end closest to the heat sink.
Yo diría que HASTA AHORA TODO VA BIEN 
. Dime como lo ves y pasamos a los jumpers 
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, pero sin embargo el coche tira fenomenal y gasta menos gasolina 
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yo aun no he logrado que marque bien del todoo, tampoco le he dado demasiadas vueltas
igual que trastear todo lo de arriba expuesto tambien lleva mas riesgo en la V3.57
, pero vamos a asegurarnos. Vamos a empezar con los inputs ...
